Smaller. No lever on the microswitch; direct button pushing. Connects to the extruder, so impossible to forget.
- 2018-04-07--12-33-40 I have some poorly wound filament that is intermittently wiggly. This often causes misreading of the runout sensor. I have discontinued using this sensor becasue of this, and will defer to my previous version for now. ie: if your filament is normal it should work fine. If your filament is highly irregular in diameter or straightness it will probably fail.
- 2018-04-04--13-29-10 - Replaced file. Fixed button not pressing issue. - Print this: filamentRunoutSensor-003-PRINT-ORIENTATION.stl - Assembled form for reference : filamentRunoutSensor-003.stl
- Why: It bothered me that I keep forgetting to put the sensor back on after filament change, so I made it attach to the extruder.
- Also: 2 - M3x12 screwed through and into nuts. 1x M3x50 secures the sensor assembly to the extruder. Optional. No doubt I will countersink everything in an updated version once I get some of the right bolts. Also houses 2x 6x1.75mm round magnets. Which are essentially useless if you screw it into the extruder, and really useful if you don't and your extruder has something ferrous the sensor can stick to.
- Works for me: PLA, 0.12mm layers, 0.4mm nozzle, 0.8mm perimeter, 10% infill, support (for the teensy extruder feeding protrusion)
- NOTE: I print with a 0.4mm nozzle so I specify 0.4mm external perimeter width in Slic3r. TO ALL OF MY MODELS TO DATE. Typically a 0.4mm nozzle prints it's external perimeters at 0.45 to 0.48mm by default, so unless you instead specify 0.4 you will probably find mated parts are too tight and bolt holes do not fit bolts. Specify 0.4mm external perimeter and you should get the results I do: perfect fit. - Why do I do this? Because it makes the math and the modeling easier and more precise than needing to add 0.45 to 0.48...divided by two (0.225 to 0.24) to everything....0.4 divided by 2 is 0.2... and easier.